LivingInPatagonia.com

San Carlos de Bariloche City Center Basics

Written by Shanie

Although we have written many posts on Bariloche and the surrounding area, it occurred to me that we haven’t spoken much about el centro de Bariloche…

Patagonia’s bustling gateway city is a mixture of active main streets, tasty restaurants, energetic bars, lively night clubs and every type of accommodation under the sun. Beyond el centro, the population hugs the southern coast of Lake Nahuel Huapi, dispersing out into suburban and rural villages. Although the intense beauty and worthy trails of the area are found outside of town, those looking to be close to bars and nightlife should stay in stumbling distance from the hustle and bustle of city center.

Accommodations in Bariloche center range from international hostels in the middle of the city to the award-winning Panamericano Hotel. The hostel options in el centro are numerous. They range in price and cleanliness from bottom of the barrel to decent accommodations. Most of the hosterias and hostels are open to longer stays, especially if only for a month or two and the time period is during slow season. The quieter times of year, or shoulder seasons, are October to Christmas and mid-March till June. The hostels and hosterias range in price, starting around $20 a night. It is best to contact various places prior to arriving and letting them know what time period you’re thinking about. Many places offer a discount if they are informed of your plan ahead of time.

The city’s main shopping district is located on the avenues of Bartolomé Mitre and Perito Moreno. Mitre starts off at Centro Civico, a classic log and stone building, built by the famed architect Alejandro Bustillo who built a majority of the older Bariloche architecture.

The street continues beyond the main plaza, lined with shops filled with chocolate, knick knacks, sweaters, t-shirts, artisan crafts and a few “fast food” dining options. Bariloche is known for its chocolate and the local favorite, Mamushka, is located on Mitre. Other than Mamushka, there are a dozen other chocolate companies in el centro, each having its own persona. An outdoor art and crafts fair is located in the city square, kiddy-corner from Centro Civico. The fair operates year-round except for major holidays and times of temperament weather.

One block up and parallel to Mitre is Perito Moreno and San Martin. The street calls itself by both names; the two being split by the YPF gas station and Morales street. The lane is home to the most popular tourist bar in town, Wilkinney.

Below Mitre a block, on Juan Manuel de Rosas, is a small, indoor ice skating rink located above a popular live music venue, Puerto Rock. The rink is located directly on the shores of Huapi, offering spectacular views. Puerto Rock is slowly becoming filled with well-known Argentine music acts. The concerts are usually held on the weekends.

There are a variety of dining options in city center, although many of the higher-end restaurants are located out in the kilometers of Bustillo. Some of the restaurants within the tourist shopping area of Mitre are basic and are not the city’s best choices.

Argentina is known for its beef and Bariloche has one of the best parrillas (bbq restaurant) in the country, El Boliche de Alberto (Villegas 347, Telephone: 43 1433). Alberto is actually a series of restaurants, both in el centro and out in the kilometers. The restaurant has been around for over thirty years. The local family that owns it still has hands-on interaction with guests. Depending on who you ask, the parilla located at kilometer 8 has better cuts of beef; I have had fantastic meals at both. Alberto offers the full spectrum of the Argentine asado. The bife de lomo, ordered a punto, is highly recommended. The portions are healthy and served family style. The restaurant, especially during high season, can have huge lines during normal Argentine dinner hours (9 p.m. or later).

If you are looking for a romantic, unique dining experience with a little Indian infusion, try Naan (Campichuelo 568, Telephone: 42 1785). Located within a private home, the family has changed their living room, with an expansive view of the city, into a gourmet dining experience for a small number of tables. The ambiance is classy and elegant and perfect for endearing couples or double dates. Reservations are required.

Another restaurant that is a must do is Virtuoso y Tarquino. This one should be put on the list for two reasons. First, the building’s log and stone hand-craftsmanship is one of the town’s best examples of architectural art with its hobbit-like arched doorway with a hand carved wooden tea pot as a door handle and two trees growing through the middle of the dining area. Second, they have the most diverse and tastiest salad bar in town. The menu also includes a wide range of parrilla choices, pastas and German dishes. It is located a few blocks from the center of town on the corners of 24 de Septiembre y Saavedra (Telephone: 434774).

Bariloche nightlife is hopping in city center. The combination of thousands of Argentine youth celebrating graduation and a multitude of international travelers creates a city ready to have a good time. It is a fun and crazy mix that often leads to hilarious conversations involving multiple languages.

The large dance clubs are mainly located on the road parallel to the lake, Juan Manuel de Rosas, each offering their own atmosphere. The five large discos (Grisu, Cerebral, Roket, By Pass and Genux) rotate on what age group they are hosting. The doorman will let you know if your peers are inside or congregating at the disco down the street. There are also smaller bars and nightspots, like the Roxy, Roxbury and El Sueño, on paralleling streets, España and San Martin, located one and two blocks uphill from the lake. Be ready to stay up late when partying Argentine-style. The real fun gets going around 3 a.m. and continues on way past sunrise.

The northern gateway city to Argentina’s Patagonia is an active metropolis. It offers a colorful variety to all visitors; fun sport activities, gourmet dining, boisterous nightlife and cultural options. It offers a little something for everyone. Just don’t forget to venture beyond the cluster-zone and into the kilometers. That is where the true beauty of this city is found and it is worthy of the trip.