15th Birthday Celebration for “Bergen The Super Dog” Deep in the Patagonian Forest

March 15th, 2010 Posted in day to day, lifestyle, sports | 1 Comment »

Written by Shanie

Although he can’t — technically speaking — read this, I want to wish our canine son, Bergen, a happy happy 15th Birthday. Today is the big day. But it really has been a week long celebration of extra belly scratches, massages and meat treats. And of course the special hiking trip.

This year I decided to take Suerte, Dulce and Bergen up Laguna Negra for the weekend (Jamie, away on travel, was missed much during the festivities). Though it is a hike we do often, as the trailhead is near the house, we had really only covered a small portion of its 5 hour travel to the manned-hut that it links to.

It was a fabulous decision…

The perfect elevation gain for Bergen and mom with a heavy pack, the four of us took our time and smelled the roses, per say.

This wasn’t a hiking trip for speed…this was one of full appreciation and awareness of how special the moment was. I mean seriously, I was loving the fact that my 15 year old boy was once again whipping my butt on a hiking trip.

Not to mention the beautiful moments in time that will be forever imprinted on my memory…

The azure blue sky setting the back drop for robust mountains of granite exploding out of the thick, lush Patagonian forest.

Healthy, vibrant bamboo springing towards the sky like Mother Nature’s elegant fingers framing the single track trails offering unforgettably great hiking.

The sunlight enhancing Bergen’s maroon highlights that have taken to his lovely coat of fur with age.

The moments of “I’m the boss” body language shown by a hip check to a young sister getting out of line, verbal cues such as a slight growl from a grumpy old guy telling his siblings it’s quite time, or letting the kids take the lead during Hiking Class…each so incredible.

But what I really hope to never forget is the actual moments of cruising…

So…to the Super Dog…Happy Happy Birthday…we all loved celebrating with you…

Whether it’s your special way of bringing out the best in all of us…

or your gracious handing over of the torch and giving Dulce the prestige of carrying your pack…

or the reminder to take in our surroundings, give it a sniff, and to really appreciate it…

your charisma, charm and studliness are oh-so-appreciated.

Picture of the Week

March 13th, 2010 Posted in picture of the week | No Comments »

The lush Patagonian forest

10 Bariloche Museums

March 12th, 2010 Posted in cosas lindas, culture, day to day | No Comments »

Written by Shanie

Bariloche is a city that shows respect to its culture by a multitude of educational museums. Including city center, the kilometers, and Colonia Suiza (the little Swiss colony located off of Circuito Chico) there is a rainbow of variety in cultural centers. From chocolate to Mapuche Indians, from trout to the gaucho’s life, northern Patagonia history is covered. The majority of the museums are small ma and pop operations. Others, like the Museo de Chocolate, are large buildings that encompass an entire factory.

Here are 10 Bariloche museums that should be put on the educational tour hit list:

The “Francisco P. Moreno” Museum of Patagonia
Opened by the National Parks service in 1940, the Patagonia museum is located on the east side of the Centro Cívico. Its name is after the Andean and Patagonian explorer Moreno, who donated much of the land that is now Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi. The areas natural sciences, ethnography, prehistory, and regional and local history are covered in the museum. There is also a library and bookstore.
Address: Centro Cívico.
Telephone: (02944) 42 2309
Monday to Saturday from 10:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m.
Tuesday to Friday from 10:00 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. and from 2:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m.

“Rosendo Pascual” Geological and Paleontological Museum
Location: Bosque Petrificado 367. Villa Los Coihues, Lago Gutierrez, Bariloche.
Telephone: (02944) 46 7578
Everyday from 9:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. and from 3:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m.

Otto Meiling Museum
Location: Cerro Otto
Telephone: (02944) 42 2266
Every day from 10:00 a.m. to 12:00 a.m. and from 3:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m.

Salon Cultural de Usos Mutiples y Paseo de los Artesanos (Muti-use cultural hall and crafts display)
Display and sale of local crafts
Location: Moreno and Villegas streets.
Monday to Friday: from 9:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m.; Saturday: from 10:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. and from 5:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m. Sunday: afternoons.

Casa Museo de los Viejos Colonos (The house museum of the old settlers)
Location: Colonia Suiza
Telephone: (02944) 42 3379 / 44 8330
Wednesday from 3:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m.
Saturday and Sunday from 10:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m.

Cerro Otto Art Gallery
Display of Michelangelo replicas (original size)
Location: Mt Otto
Telephone: (02944) 44 1035
Every day from 10:00 a.m. to 6:30 p.m.

Indoor Feria Artesanal Municipal (local art and craft fair)
Display and sale of local crafts
Address: Moreno and Villegas streets.
Open every day, 10 a.m. – 8 p.m.

La Casa del Acuarista (aquarium house)
50 aquariums with Patagonian fish, trout, ornamental and rare species.
Address: Gallardo and Rolando street, 1° floor.
Telephone: (02944) 42 3077 / 15 604346
Monday to Friday from 10:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. and from 4:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m.
Saturday from 5:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m. .

Centro de Salmonicultura (Salmon Farming Center)
Road to Mt Catedral (Kilometer 11)
Telephone: (02944) 46 1021
Monday to Friday 11:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.

Fenoglio Sacifia Museo de Chocolate
Bustillo km 1
Telephone: (02944) 43 9204
Factory hours: Monday – Thursday 11 a.m. – 3 p.m.
Museum and chocolate shop hours: Monday – Sunday 11 a.m. – 7:30 p.m.

Argentina Driving Circuits, Part 3: Northern Argentina, Salta to Cafayate

March 12th, 2010 Posted in culture, travel | No Comments »

For the third installment of great travel loops of Argentina we will be traveling to the northwest corner of the country.

The trip begins in Salta, a land of folklore, gaucho enchantment and the nation’s best empanadas. You will then venture through two distinct geographical zones and visit Quilmes, a village of ruins from 1000 AD. The trip continues on passing through Cafayate, the Palm Springs of the southern hemisphere.

The voyage’s main hub, Salta, is a town worthy of at least an overnight visit. Located in the northwest corner of Argentina, near the Bolivian border, Salta is framed by twenty thousand foot peaks and forested mountains. Salta is a literal oasis within a high desert landscape. It is considered to be one of the jewels of Argentina. A metropolitan city with a population nearing a half a million, it is a congenial mixture of native customs and European culture. She is an enchanting city decorated with intricately detailed 18th century architecture.

The town is sprinkled with parks and outdoor art and craft fairs. And the locals appreciate their heritage and show it off to visitors with tasty restaurants and musical shows. Their appreciation for the past extends to the Museum of High Altitude Archaelogy (MAAM) where the mummified bodies of three children, found on the summits of the towering local mountains, are protected.

Once you have had your fill of Salta it is time to start the tour. Enjoy the scenery and take your time. There is hidden treasure in the amazing natural landscape if one takes the time to explore.

Day 1: Depart Salta and head south on Route 68. Just pass Alemania, 100 km south of Salta you enter the Quebrada de Cafayate, a canyon filled with sculpted rock.

Some of the most popular formations are Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat), El Anfiteatro (The Amphitheater) and Los Castillos (The Castles). Rain water has carved these natural statues through a rainbow of sediment layers.

Just past the canyon you will arrive in Cafayate. This is a great place to stay the night, maybe visit a winery or two and get ready for an early start.

Day 2: Head south from Cafayate on legendary Ruta 40. Ruta 40 is a famous Argentine highway that spans the length of the country. Along the way you will come to the ancient site of the village of Quilmes. A congregation of over 5000 people, Quilmes was a functioning city located on 30 hectares (75 acres). Today the pathways are still navigational and the walls of the buildings give shape to the township. There is a museum and gift shop as well as a family of llamas for entertainment.

Getting back to Ruta 40 you will continue south. At Amaichá del Valle, head south east on Ruta 307. Eighty kilometers further you will arrive at Tafi de Valle and Parque de los Menhires. Tafi de Valle is a narrow gorge formed by the raging Rio de los Sosas. The valley is surrounded by the massive, towering mountains of the Sierra Aconouija. Reaching over 5000 meters (17,000 feet), the peaks are home to large numbers of Condors. The mountain range is laced with hiking trails and there are places to stay overnight if so desired.

When you decide to continue on the next stop is another three hours down the road in Tucuman via Ruta 307 to Ruta 38. Tucuman is a lively city with a lovely main plaza area rimmed with European architecture. There is also a large pedestrian mall filled with clothing, jewelry and shoe stores.

Day 3: Leave Tucuman and head north on ruta 9 returning to Salta, approximately a four and a half hour trip. This is a well-maintained road allowing for easy travel.

This three day excursion is a fantastic loop for seeing amazing natural carvings, the open landscape of the north and getting to know true Argentine folklore. Not to mention some of the best wine that Argentina has to offer. It’s a combination that is worthy of the trip.

San Carlos de Bariloche City Center Basics

March 11th, 2010 Posted in culture, day to day | 1 Comment »

Written by Shanie

Although we have written many posts on Bariloche and the surrounding area, it occurred to me that we haven’t spoken much about el centro de Bariloche

Patagonia’s bustling gateway city is a mixture of active main streets, tasty restaurants, energetic bars, lively night clubs and every type of accommodation under the sun. Beyond el centro, the population hugs the southern coast of Lake Nahuel Huapi, dispersing out into suburban and rural villages. Although the intense beauty and worthy trails of the area are found outside of town, those looking to be close to bars and nightlife should stay in stumbling distance from the hustle and bustle of city center.

Accommodations in Bariloche center range from international hostels in the middle of the city to the award-winning Panamericano Hotel. The hostel options in el centro are numerous. They range in price and cleanliness from bottom of the barrel to decent accommodations. Most of the hosterias and hostels are open to longer stays, especially if only for a month or two and the time period is during slow season. The quieter times of year, or shoulder seasons, are October to Christmas and mid-March till June. The hostels and hosterias range in price, starting around $20 a night. It is best to contact various places prior to arriving and letting them know what time period you’re thinking about. Many places offer a discount if they are informed of your plan ahead of time.

The city’s main shopping district is located on the avenues of Bartolomé Mitre and Perito Moreno. Mitre starts off at Centro Civico, a classic log and stone building, built by the famed architect Alejandro Bustillo who built a majority of the older Bariloche architecture.

The street continues beyond the main plaza, lined with shops filled with chocolate, knick knacks, sweaters, t-shirts, artisan crafts and a few “fast food” dining options. Bariloche is known for its chocolate and the local favorite, Mamushka, is located on Mitre. Other than Mamushka, there are a dozen other chocolate companies in el centro, each having its own persona. An outdoor art and crafts fair is located in the city square, kiddy-corner from Centro Civico. The fair operates year-round except for major holidays and times of temperament weather.

One block up and parallel to Mitre is Perito Moreno and San Martin. The street calls itself by both names; the two being split by the YPF gas station and Morales street. The lane is home to the most popular tourist bar in town, Wilkinney.

Below Mitre a block, on Juan Manuel de Rosas, is a small, indoor ice skating rink located above a popular live music venue, Puerto Rock. The rink is located directly on the shores of Huapi, offering spectacular views. Puerto Rock is slowly becoming filled with well-known Argentine music acts. The concerts are usually held on the weekends.

There are a variety of dining options in city center, although many of the higher-end restaurants are located out in the kilometers of Bustillo. Some of the restaurants within the tourist shopping area of Mitre are basic and are not the city’s best choices.

Argentina is known for its beef and Bariloche has one of the best parrillas (bbq restaurant) in the country, El Boliche de Alberto (Villegas 347, Telephone: 43 1433). Alberto is actually a series of restaurants, both in el centro and out in the kilometers. The restaurant has been around for over thirty years. The local family that owns it still has hands-on interaction with guests. Depending on who you ask, the parilla located at kilometer 8 has better cuts of beef; I have had fantastic meals at both. Alberto offers the full spectrum of the Argentine asado. The bife de lomo, ordered a punto, is highly recommended. The portions are healthy and served family style. The restaurant, especially during high season, can have huge lines during normal Argentine dinner hours (9 p.m. or later).

If you are looking for a romantic, unique dining experience with a little Indian infusion, try Naan (Campichuelo 568, Telephone: 42 1785). Located within a private home, the family has changed their living room, with an expansive view of the city, into a gourmet dining experience for a small number of tables. The ambiance is classy and elegant and perfect for endearing couples or double dates. Reservations are required.

Another restaurant that is a must do is Virtuoso y Tarquino. This one should be put on the list for two reasons. First, the building’s log and stone hand-craftsmanship is one of the town’s best examples of architectural art with its hobbit-like arched doorway with a hand carved wooden tea pot as a door handle and two trees growing through the middle of the dining area. Second, they have the most diverse and tastiest salad bar in town. The menu also includes a wide range of parrilla choices, pastas and German dishes. It is located a few blocks from the center of town on the corners of 24 de Septiembre y Saavedra (Telephone: 434774).

Bariloche nightlife is hopping in city center. The combination of thousands of Argentine youth celebrating graduation and a multitude of international travelers creates a city ready to have a good time. It is a fun and crazy mix that often leads to hilarious conversations involving multiple languages.

The large dance clubs are mainly located on the road parallel to the lake, Juan Manuel de Rosas, each offering their own atmosphere. The five large discos (Grisu, Cerebral, Roket, By Pass and Genux) rotate on what age group they are hosting. The doorman will let you know if your peers are inside or congregating at the disco down the street. There are also smaller bars and nightspots, like the Roxy, Roxbury and El Sueño, on paralleling streets, España and San Martin, located one and two blocks uphill from the lake. Be ready to stay up late when partying Argentine-style. The real fun gets going around 3 a.m. and continues on way past sunrise.

The northern gateway city to Argentina’s Patagonia is an active metropolis. It offers a colorful variety to all visitors; fun sport activities, gourmet dining, boisterous nightlife and cultural options. It offers a little something for everyone. Just don’t forget to venture beyond the cluster-zone and into the kilometers. That is where the true beauty of this city is found and it is worthy of the trip.

Patagonia Flower Favorites

March 10th, 2010 Posted in flora | No Comments »

Written by Shanie

Flowers are such a treat. They have such an uncanny way of brightening the day. If we stop to really look at them, their preciousness can bring joy to the heart and a smile to the face.

So, in appreciation of Mother Nature’s colorful bouquet, I would like to give homage to some of my favorite Patagonian wildflowers. Here are my top 5 picks, all equally adored and admired…


palomitaorquidea blanca or palomita

Ourisia Poeppigii

Amancay

Yellow violet

Arvejilla

Phrase of the Week

March 9th, 2010 Posted in phrase of the week | No Comments »

tirar los galgos: this literally means to throw the greyhounds, but more colloquially speaking means to be flirty or to make an advance on someone

How to Help Victims of the Chilean Earthquake

March 8th, 2010 Posted in day to day | No Comments »
Written by Shanie

If you live in or around Bariloche and would like to help the victims of the Chilean earthquake, the Chilean consulate has set up a receiving station for goods to be sent to the Red Cross in Osorno. To donate go to Centro Chileno Gabriela Mistral, located on the corner of Sarmiento and Neuquén. They are open Monday to Sunday, 10am to 9 pm. Telephone: (02944)430 630

At this time, they are looking for:
  • Bedding: blankets, sleeping bags, tents, etc
  • Personal hygiene: soap, shampoo, diapers, towels, tooth brushes, etc
  • Cleaning supplies: dish soap, laundry detergent, matches, etc
  • First aid supplies: alcohol, gas, bandages, etc
  • Non-perishable food: mineral water, powdered milk, cooking oil, pasta, sugar, salt, rice, coffee, etc (flower and tea is NOT being allowed due to customs regulations)
  • Clean clothes for children and adults, coats, etc

Please send this information on to anyone you feel can help.

Picture of the Week

March 6th, 2010 Posted in picture of the week | No Comments »

Textured Patagonian Sunset

Bariloche Parapenting Flies with the Condors

March 5th, 2010 Posted in lifestyle | No Comments »

Written by Shanie

Have you ever dreamed of flying like a bird? How about a bird with a ten foot wingspan? Would flying with the giants of the sky suffice? Well, that is exactly what Ernesto Gutierrez is doing in the Lakes District of Patagonia. And he’s offering that exhilarating feeling to visitors of the area with his business, Parapente Bariloche.

A relatively new sport to the adventure scene, Parapente, or paragliding, began in the 1980s in Europe. It was quickly realized that this flying mechanism of a fabric wing propelled by air flowing through vents was the closest that a human can come to being a part of our feathered friend’s world. The adrenaline-pumping surfing of the ever-changing wind thermals soon became a world-renowned sport. And that is when Bariloche local, Gutierrez, found something that made him feel alive. The skylark had such a strong pull to the air currents and overwhelmingly fabulous feeling from the activity that he wanted to share the glory. So, he created Parapente Bariloche.

I was able to sit down with the innovator of Patagonian paragliding and find out what makes him passionate about flying with the Andean Condors, what it is like to be amongst the winds of change, and whether or not it really is safe to fly like a bird. This is what he had to say:

SM: How did you initially become involved with parapenting?

Gutierrez: I always dreamed about free-flying – the act of flying without an engine and taking off by the pilot’s own legs. I started paragliding 16 years ago in Bariloche (Argentina), when I had the possibility to take a course with a French instructor and buy my first wing. It quickly became a passion for me from the beginning and I quit many other activities to have more time to fly.

SM: What is it like to fly with the Patagonian wind and birds?

Gutierrez: I believe Patagonia is a very special place in the world with its incredible landscapes and an amazing wilderness. We fly with moderate winds and here in Patagonia the weather conditions can change fast. This can be a problem for pilots from other areas, but Patagonian pilots learned to watch and pay special attention to weather evolution. Fortunately weather forecasts are much more accurate now and there is a lot of available information out there to keep us safe. Many times we must stay on the ground because it’s too windy to fly but that’s part of the rules. The wildlife is also special in Patagonia.There is a large number of birds we can watch from the air and around the take off and landing areas. Big birds like the Andean Condors, vultures, eagles and hawks have a similar way of flying; using air streams to save energy and go higher. That’s also what free-flyers do; so we share those air streams with them.

SM: So you have you flown with the Andean condors?

Gutierrez: In the area of Bariloche and El Bolsón we have the largest Andean Condor population in the world. On Cerro Otto (a spectacular view point located in central Bariloche), very close to the city, you can watch them daily at certain times, when they fly from their sleeping areas to the feeding areas. Condors are social and curious birds. They like to come very close to paragliders to watch us.Young condors are even more trustful. They like to play with paragliders and sometimes they even touch our wings in a friendly way.

SM: What has been your favorite experience so far in parapenting?

Gutierrez: I have many thousands of flights. Each flight is different so it’s difficult to choose one, but I especially enjoy cross country flights. And also the smiles and feedback I get from my passengers.

SM: Do you feel that parapenting is a dangerous activity? Why or why not?

Gutierrez: I think paragliding could be dangerous or not, depending on who practices the activity.Of course flying the wrong day, in the wrong place, or with your equipment in bad condition could be dangerous, but we must develope, step by step, the knowledge to make good decisions.The safety of this activity depends specifically on ourselves.

SM: Which areas in the Lakes District are best for flying?

Gutierrez: Around Bariloche there are many flying areas and take off points. We enjoy flying especially off Cerro Otto and Catedral because of their beauty and the roads and chairlifts offering easy-access to take-off zones. El Bolsón is similar to Bariloche but we can fly more days there, because it’s less windy.

SM: How do you fly with clients?

Gutierrez: We do paragliding tandem flights. We use special wings built for two. We prepare the passenger with a suit, helmet and harness. After a short briefing they are ready to take off with the tandem pilot. It’s necessary to run a few steps to become airborne but after that we are flying in comfortable seats. The pilot normally steers the wing, although the passenger can also do that during part of the flight.

SM: Are there any special abilities that a person needs to fly with you?

Gutierrez: Passengers don’t need any previous knowledge, nor any special physical conditioning.

SM: What would a day be like for a person that is flying with you?

Gutierrez: We contact the passengers on flight day around 9 am to confirm weather conditions, meeting place, flight place, and time. If we fly off Cerro Otto it takes around two hours including transports, preparations and flight. Normally we go up the mountain with two pilots and two passengers at a time. If we decide to fly in El Bolsón (130 kilometers or 80 miles away) because of weather conditions, we will need all the day or six hours at least.

SM: What is the most important piece of advice you can give someone considering parapenting?

Gutierrez: Let’s fly! Paragliding is an incredible and amazing activity. It’s very gentle and is not frightening. Flying like a bird will always be one of mankind’s dreams and now, with paragliding, it is possible.

You can contact Parapente Bariloche via email, parapente@bariloche.com.ar, or telephone, (02944) 15 413 037 or (02944) 462 234.